From the 1840s through the 1860s there was a positive mania for summer dresses decorated in this very particular fashion. Several cultures including China, Japan, Malaysia and Thailand use the wing casings of certain beetles as part of embroidery and jewelry, and have done so for centuries. The beetles, which have a very short span of only a few weeks are allowed to live their full life out and when deceased, the wing covers are harvested. They have a profound iridescent coloration and are quite hard. They must be either drilled carefully to sew them down, or they are affixed by decorative stitch work around them just covering the edges.

This example is a two piece cotton organdy summer ensemble from the 1860s. The embroidery work on the blouse and skirt is enhanced with silver strip and silver thread which must have had an appealing glisten in the summer sun.

Offered through Whitaker Auctions.